*NOTE: As always, the recommendations I make on my site are based on my experiences as a paying customer. Suffice it to say, if any of you reading this are interested in having a Minolta Autocord skillfully serviced, do not hesitate to contact Karl (he is located in the USA and can be found easily via an internet search - or you can contact me and I’ll forward you his email) and you will be taken care of by a true gentleman.* To use the meter…”Īs you can see, Karl took care of everything an now my Autocord has been restored to its former glory. I tested your meter, the CDS meter works and appears to be accurate. You will find the old parts in the upper film spool area of the camera. I also replaced the damaged rear waist level finder lifting button and the badly damaged aperture/shutter viewing window.
I also straightened the waist level finder so that it would open smoothly and the magnifier would not droop (can’t focus if the magnifier isn’t parallel to the ground glass). I cleaned/lubricated the focus helix and then I reset the focus, a very sharp lens. As recvd the focus was very very stiff (temp was 1 C) and infinity focus was when the focus lever was set to 50’ (camera tech probably didn’t have an autocollimator for setting focus). It was a real pleasure to work on your camera, a very clean camera. I lacquered the pin and the 2 aperture control plate screws (camera tech also forgot to lacquer the screws). Without the lacquer the pin will fall out. The camera shutter had been CLA’d, but the camera tech forgot to put lacquer on the shutter cocking lever pin. …I have included a CD of Autocord information in the box with your camera.
#MINOLTA AUTOCORD VALUE PRO#
You can pick up Pro and Semi-Pro bodies for similar money. People are overpaying for K1000’s and Canon AE-1’s relative to what they were when released. On film you wont notice the difference, especially if scanning with a flatbed.Ģ) Try and put into perspective what the camera was when it came out. MJU II’s were great for under $100 not now. (albeit not pure aluminium or titanium - only from outside)Īs someone who buys and sells these as a business, here’s some advice for the current marketġ) Don’t bother with advanced Or trendy point and shoots.
#MINOLTA AUTOCORD VALUE SERIES#
It's sophisticated 6 Element Lens design, like the Olympus XA, but unlike that, the Minox 35 Series all use zone focusing, so if you're not familar with that - better get a rangefinder- or AF-based compact camera.Īll Minox 35 Series are based onto a makolon (plastic) body, whileas the MDC and a few other special series are with aluminium and titanium coated makrolon body.
The Miroxar is the better lens, compared to the Mirotar used into all the other series, also included a Skylight (UV) filter in front of the lens design. The 35 ML was sensitive for electronics fail, and much more boxy, bigger and brick-like, into contrast to the 35 EL, 35 GL, 35 GT, 35 GT-E, etc. Much more robust, hence better is the predecessor 35 GT, and GT-E Series successor (the latter one with updated, multicoated Miroxar 35/2.8 Lens) The 35 ML is the only one of the Minox 35 Series, prone to failure.
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